Of A Lack Of Proper Battery Maintenance
It seems that we have a problem with both are RV battery maintenance, and car battery maintenance. This page is focusing on deep cycle RV battery maintenance. Most of the car battery maintenance is the same as the deep cycle RV battery maintenance. Only charging and discharge cycles differ.
Our So, how do we become the fifteen percent that enjoy the full potential of our big house batteries? How do we get the most out of our deep cycle battery.
Why am I focusing on this deep cycle battery issue? Well, some locations limit your generating capacity to pretty much midday use. This means that you must have enough battery power in your rig to get you through the non-generating times of night.
Unless you you only go to RV parks that have plenty of power, or like to boondock out in the middle of nowhere where you can run your gen-set anytime you desire, you have to pay attention to the rules governing your surroundings.
All Class C Motorhomes will have a deep cycle battery bank consisting of one or more batteries that will be constructed of lead acid and will produce 12V DC.
A word of caution is needed here… a deep cycle battery is very dangerous. These things contain a sulfuric acid electrolyte (75% distilled water and 25% sulfuric acid), which is a corrosive liquid.
This acid can emit flammable hydrogen gas… think Hindenburg. Always be sure you and your deep cycle battery are in a well-ventilated space.
You do not want to smoke around these things, and avoid making any sparks or open flames. If you do get acid on you, dilute it down immediately with lots and lots of cold water.
You should ALWAYS wear safety glasses and protective clothing when cleaning or doing maintenance around a deep cycle battery.
that make up a Deep Cycle Battery bank
There are three types of lead acid deep cycle RV batteries available today: They are Flooded Cell, Gel, and Absorbed Gas Mat (AGM):
Controlling the charge voltage is very important in any gel battery. They will require a slightly lower voltage than your standard flooded cell.
This is to prevent the irreplaceable electrolyte from boiling out.
Also, the rate of charge has to be slower. A sloppy charging technique will quickly destroy this unit.
I think the trick here is that if you really want a maintenance free unit, just make sure you have a charger that is designed to charge this gel. You don't want to wing it!
Most people still use the good old wet cells in 12 and 6 volt configurations. So I'm going focus on this type of unit. However, there is a lot of information about AGM and gels out there if you want to go in that direction.
12V deep cycle batteries are sized in groups. They can come in sizes ranging from the Group 24 (70-85 amp-hours) up to Group 31 (95-125 amp-hours). If you use more than one 12V battery, always connect them in a parallel configuration.
A popular alternative is to use a couple of 6V golf cart batteries (like the T-105) wired-in series. This will produce a strong 12V DC. Golf cart sized units have a true deep cycle, and they have thicker cell plates. The rule is... the thicker the plates, the better the deep cycle battery.
Trojan makes the T-105; and because you have to use these 6V units in groups of two, you will end up with 180 to 220 amp-hour per pair. This would give you up to a 440 amp-hour rating if you were to use four of them. When you go off the grid, you want the most amps that you can have. It makes life so much less stressful.
There are tons of information available at sites like http://www.rv.net/forum/. Feel free to go and ask questions, and you will get your answers. You may also provide information that could help others.
As I've already mentioned, your Class C Motorhome has two separate and distinctly different types of electricity. The stuff your generator and shore power (the grid) puts out is 115V AC, or when paired up with an inverter, solar panels , or even wind, it will produce 12V DC.
It is important, however, that you understand that not all electricity is the same. AC electrical appliances are designed to be used with specific electrical grids.
When you are traveling, you may experience issues with compatibility using certain appliances and mobile devices with the available shore power.
For most Class C Motorhome owners, this information will only apply to those who go further south than Mexico to parts of Central and South America.
The AC electrical grid in North America (the United States, Canada, and Mexico) is substantially different than the majority of the rest of the world.
Its electricity is 115 V AC at 60 Hz per second. Almost everywhere else uses the metric electrical supply system, which is rated at 220/240 V AC at 50 Hz per second.
This information would only be important for you if you were to travel, say to Europe, Asia, Australia, or south of Mexico and wanted to bring mobile & electrical devices such as a coffee pot, hair dryer, some types of computers, phone chargers, etc. Even in the good old US of A, electrical power is not necessarily the same everywhere you go.
You should always test any electrical source before you plug it into your Class C Motorhome.
There can always be polarity issues, low voltages (brown outs), or even high voltages. You want your AC to stay in a range of between 115 V AC and 120 V AC. If you go out of this range, it is possible to damage certain electrical components.
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Class C Motorhome
Class C Motorhome
Class C Motorhome
Class C Motorhome